Friday, June 16, 2006

How Rob Got Sick--or Typhoid: No Longer Confined to Oregon Trail

*warning: long post ahead*

My friends. I am reporting to you once again, alive against all odds, from home base in Bangkok. I have had a pretty incredible experience in the latter part of my stay in Vietnam. Think "natural disaster" incredible, as opposed to, say, "Mr. Incredible" incredible. As you've probably guessed from the title, I somehow managed to contract typhoid whilst I was traveling in northern Vietnam. I know what you’re thinking...sounds like a disease from the 1800s, doesn't it? While that sinks in, I feel that I should explain the rest of the title...in elementary, one of the only computer games available to us at school was called Oregon Trail. The premise was simple; you were allotted a sum of money with which you would then purchased supplies and a wagon, and take your entire family out West along the Oregon Trail. The game was complete with hunting sequences, river crossings and encounters with wild animals (anyone else finding this familiar? No? *sigh*...ah well). Now, in naming our settling parties we usually included our close friends, so I might attempt the trail with Matt and Khalid alongside me. Unfortunately, the harsh realty for the settlers was that the trail was fraught with danger and hardship. Almost invariably, Khalid would get a snakebite, Matt would get diphtheria, and wouldn't you know it, Rob might come down with typhoid. At this point, you were given the choice to slow the pace down, maybe give some fresh fruit to your invalids, and try to encourage them back to health. To my great and everlasting shame, I was much more likely to leave them for dead in my hurry to reach the fabled Oregon. Obviously, it seems that I am paying for these computer game sins in some sort of terrible and twisted karmic backlash. Let no man say God doesn’t have a sense of humor. In any event, I tell you this truthfully: if ever again I play the Oregon Trail, I will be sure to nurse the typhoid victims back to health, no matter how much it slows down the party. Because typhoid really sucks. Seriously.

So, how did I get typhoid? Well, having being vaccinated, I was under the impression that it would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to get this disease. Apparently not. You can get typhoid from eating something that is infected, and being in Northern Vietnam, the food choices were somewhat limited. Anyways, basically I arrived in Sapa on the night of the 7th, feeling good. I met up with my two Canadian friends who I had met in Mai Chau on the first leg of the trip, and so enjoyed some dinner and conversation with them. The next day, I woke up feeling a little bit off, but I was sure that once I began riding, it would pass. My friends suggested I follow them for the day, to which I agreed; they were headed to a remote village beside a lake, where they would stay the night before heading back to Hanoi. About mid morning, I was feeling decidedly unwell...a high fever, cold shakes, dizziness, and headaches. Not the best conditions for riding a full 8 hour day through some very tricky dirt roads, but what could I do? I managed to stay on the bike somehow, almost passed out with fever, and at 5 or 6 at night, we rolled into this little hill tribe village. Stumbling up the stairs to the bamboo stilt hut where we would be sleeping, I managed to throw my stuff in a corner before passing out on the floor. I was awoken for dinner, which I couldn't manage to eat. Unfortunately, one of the customs is for the men of the family to drink rice wine with dinner, and for me not to accept it would be extremely impolite...so despite my protests I was forced to raise a shot glass of home brew with the others and mime drinking (I poured the stuff out but I may have been busted). Anyways, I slept fitfully all night, by turns freezing cold and burning hot, tossing and turning. In the morning, I once again mounted up, and rode another full day into Hanoi, where we arrived at about 3PM. I won't bore you with details, except to say that the ride was miserable...never ride when really sick if you can possibly avoid it.

Having made it back to Hanoi, I dropped my stuff off at a guesthouse, and went to the Hospital—remember, at this point, I still didn't even know what was wrong with me. My friends thought perhaps malaria, so I went to the hospital to get some blood tests done. Upon seeing my condition, they basically said "you'll be staying here tonight," and I was in no condition to argue. Thus began my 8 day stay at L'Hopital Francaise de Hanoi. As hospitals go, it wasn't actually too bad...decent food, friendly staff, and reasonably competent doctors. However, that didn't stop them from first diagnosing me with a kidney infection, then either an abdominal infection or lymphoma based on my CT scan and ultrasound (yes Lymphoma is cancer), before finally settling onto a nice, even typhoid diagnosis. Truly bizarre. Anyways, I was in quarantine, so no leaving the room except for tests for pretty much 7 days...the first 3 of which I was really sick, so I guess it didn't matter, but after that, I definitely developed a little bit of cabin fever. Anyways, long story short, I was discharged yesterday, escaped Vietnam last night on a plane, and am now back at home recovering. *sigh*. What an ordeal. Want to here something strange, though? As part of my antibiotic regime for home, I noticed bottles of medicine to be taken twice daily for 5 days, along with my pills. Confused, I asked the nurse how to take the medicine. Why, by intravenous injection, of course! You mean like a shot? How am I going to get a shot twice a day? Well, I guess you will have to find a clinic that will do it for you...In other words, at home I now have to track down a clinic that will let me bring in my own medicine for them to shoot into me twice a day for the next little while. Both strange and annoying. But at least I’m free.

Anyways, let me end by saying I appreciate all the thoughts and prayers and support I have received from both friends and family. Being sick away from home is never fun, especially when it's something serious like typhoid. It’s always much more difficult to recover quickly when those people who make you smile and laugh are absent. It was great to get emails and posts from all you guys, I really appreciate your thoughts. I'm on the mend now, so I'll post soon with new plans...for now, stay well, and keep clear of the typhoid at all costs ;)

Monday, June 05, 2006

Welcome to Son La...

Hey everyone--I am sitting in a small internet cafe in Son La, one of Vietnam's most North-Western cities, surrounded by young Vietnamese playing computer games. Ah, cultural similarities....;) Frustratingly, I can't access tons of normal content, like my ualberta email, or CBC, or even google.ca...so bizzare, cause I could get all of it in Hanoi...is there some strange information restriction that only applies to Son La? Whatever, I was surprised enough to find an internet cafe up in the middle of nowhere. I have completed day 2 of my mountain ride...what an incredible couple of days it has been. I'll give you a brief synopsis...

Day 1: I woke up at 830, determined to make an early start on the journey to Mai Chau, which lays about 150 kms west and slightly south of Hanoi. In spite of the seeming short distance, remember that I was riding a Minsk 125, and so could expect to average at best 40 or 50 km/h through the winding mountain roads. Also, I first had to escape from Hanoi itself, a city whose traffic makes Bangkok's rush hour look like a leisurely sunday drive through the country. After grabbing some supplies, I walked over to the bike rental shop. I was outfitted with my bike, a battered red Minsk, ran over the basic maintenance and refuelling routine with the guy from the shop, and then strapped my pack to the back. The guy from the shop had agreed to lead me to the outskirts of Hanoi and point me in the right direction for Mai Chau (very thoughtful) so I wove through the thousands of scooters that speed through Hanoi like schools of fish, tailing my guide as best I could. By some miracle, we reached highway 6 unscathed, where my guide gave me a wave, a thumbs-up, and took off.

The ride itself to Mai Chau was stunning--it began through townships that exist outside Hanoi, moving into more and more remote territory, until by mid afternoon I was climbing up into my first mountains. At a particularily beautiful lookout point, I stopped for some pics, and was joined by two other Canadians from montreal, who were doing the loop with a guide. At their guide's reccomendation, I followed them to a village near Mai Chau, which was only another 45 minutes away, and secured myself a place to sleep with one of the local families that opens up there house to travellers. Their place was a traditional Vietnamese stilt house, pretty much one big room with bamboo slats on the floor. I enjoyed an incredible meal with my hosts, Ling and Te, and met their two sons--then I spent the night walking around the village, doing a quick ride around the county with the Canadians I met, and reading my book in the stilt house. It all felt very authentic, and I was glad to have been their guest.

This morning I left at about 730 for Son La, some 200 kms away from Mai Chau to the North West. I made really good time, and despite a couple of stops for food, rolled into town at about 1PM. The ride was incredible again--much higher, and a little cooler. Not many others on the rode, leaving me to fly along while listening to some tunes on the old Ipod...a highlight of which was cresting a particularily spectacular pass and having the Beatle's "I've got a feeling" as covered by Beck come on...dave, les, if you read this, you'll know what I mean.

Anyways, i've found myself a place to sleep at at quasi-hotel/guesthouse, and am now exploring the town. I'm not sure if there will be more internet as i continue north, but if so I will send another update. I wish I could check my email, cause I'm sure it's brimming with mail from my friends and family. Am i right? Eh? Am I? Hahaha, love as usual to all.

Saturday, June 03, 2006

Off into Northern Vietnam

Hey everyone--just a shout out from Hanoi, where I am about to depart into the northern mountains for a week, riding a Minsk 125...should be lots of fun, some incredible countryside to see, and it'll be great to get back on a bike again, even if it is a small one. So yeah, i'll be out of contact for a while but I am safe and well and will check in where it's possible. Love to all my friends and fam!
Free Counters
Free Web Counter